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Beautiful woman's hood with floral design and embellished with glass bead fringe and yarn tassel | Donald Ellis Gallery
Blue woman's dress with bright red sleeves decorated with intricate geometric design | Donald Ellis Gallery
Pair of dark blue leggings with floral design matching the ensemble's hood | Donald Ellis Gallery
A woman's cape made of dark blue wool and decorated with floral design | Donald Ellis Gallery

James Bay Cree Woman's Ensemble

James Bay Cree
Northern Ontario or Quebec

ca. 1840-50

Hood: glass beads, wool broadcloth, silk ribbon and cotton cloth. Dress: wool and cotton cloth, glass beads, silk tape. Leggings: wool broadcloth, glass beads, cotton cloth. Cape: wool broadcloth, silk ribbon, yarn

height: hood: 25", dress: 48", leggings: 19", cape: 49 ½"

Inventory # W3297

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Provenance

An old label with the outfit reads:
“Grannie’s red Indian dress
bought in Canada about 1856 or perhaps a
few years earlier.”

RELATED EXAMPLES

Brasser, Ted. "Bo'jou, Neejee!". Ottawa: National Museum of Man, 1976, pl. 180

Duncan, Kate. Northern Athapaskan Art: A Beadwork Tradition. Seattle: University of Washington Press, 1989, pg. 125

This remarkable ensemble consisting of a cape, dress, hood and leggings is the only known complete James Bay Cree woman’s outfit from the 19th century.  Originally purchased in Canada in about 1856 by a touring British woman, the outfit remained in the same family until 2005. Decorative details confirm that the individual items were intended to be combined into one ensemble. Identical wool braid can be found on the leggings, dress and dress sleeves. The bead colours, including an unusual mauve bead, along with similar design motifs link the hood with the leggings. This is further evidenced by the similarity in design on the cape and that seen on the hood and leggings.

The uniqueness of this cape and dress necessitate drawing comparative evidence from a small group of dolls outfitted in typical Cree garments dating 1790-1810, and from a single doll from the 1850’s. Of the three miniature capes decorated at the hem and shoulder and fastened at the front, two are made of woolen cloth appliquéd with silk ribbon (Rosalie Whyel Museum of Doll Art), and the other with wool braid (Warnock Collection WC8905031). In the full sized cape seen here, the typical Cree floral design elements embroidered with wool yarn confirm its mid-century date.  As well, the cut of the dress compares closely with that seen on a more recent cloth doll dating to the mid 19th century (British Museum 1923.6.194d).

All the dolls wear the practical detachable sleeves seen in the full-size dress, allowing greater flexibility in movement and physical comfort. The sleeves can be added in cold weather, removed inside a dwelling, and manipulated to facilitate breastfeeding. Presently only two full-size dresses are known, the fine example illustrated here, and a much later version in the National Museum of the American Indian (NMAI 15/166).

Firm dating and continuous collection history make this woman’s outfit an important addition to the corpus of 19th century Cree material culture. Taken as a whole, the historical and ethnographic value of this ensemble is immeasurable.